![]() Chick grit consists of very small stones, like coarse sand, similar to parakeet grit. Again, open dishes are not the best choice of feeder for chicks.Ĭhickens have no teeth – they need grit in the form of small rocks to grind their food. Elevating the feeder after the first few days helps. Chick feeders come in many styles, but they should prevent feed spillage and wasting, and prevent contamination with litter or droppings. For the first few days, sprinkle feed on a paper towel so that chicks can learn to eat. Starter feeds should contain no greater than 21% protein for dual-purpose or egg-type chickens – too much protein causes growth problems. They should not be on this emergency ration for more than a day or so, as it does not constitute a balanced diet. A good emergency ration is a 50-50 blend of rolled oats and cornmeal, whirled in a food blender to a mash or crumble consistency. It has a high calcium content that is toxic to chicks and will cause bone, liver, and kidney problems or cause death. Layer mash, crumbles, or pellets should never be fed to chicks, not even as an emergency ration. Foodīaby chicks need to eat chick starter mash or crumbles, a blend specially formulated for their growth and development. Increase height as they grow older – bricks or 2X4” wire-covered lumber boxes are equally useful. When the toweling has been removed, place the waterer on a non-slip elevated surface, like a wire platform, to prevent the chicks from scratching litter into their water. For the first few days, the waterer can be placed directly on the toweling. Water should never be provided in an open dish – chicks will track droppings and spilled feed through it and invite disease. You’ll know if you need a larger waterer if you need to fill more than once per day. For 10 or fewer chicks, a quart-size chick fount will take them through several weeks for more chicks or older birds, a gallon fount will be a more appropriate size. Birds drink to cool themselves down – if they start going through too much water, they may be overheated and the brooder temperature needs to be lowered. The water should be cool, not hot and not cold. Waterįresh, clean water should be available to chicks at all times. If located out of drafts, they should not need any additional heat beyond this age. For each successive week, the temperature should be lowered 5 degrees until completely feathered out at four to five weeks. If you cannot physically raise or lower the lamp, use a different wattage bulb. Raise or lower the heat source accordingly. Too cold, and they will huddle under the light and peep loudly. Too hot, and the birds will crowd as far from the heatĪs possible. Chicks will let you know if the brooder is too hot or too cold. For the first week of life, the brooder should be at about 95 degrees. It should have a cooler area for chicks to find their level ofĬomfort. If using an infrared bulb, be sure to use a porcelain socket – plastic will melt. Infrared bulbs get very hot – they should be kept a minimum of 18 inches away from flammable items (such as wooden or cardboard walls, and wood shavings). For a greater number of chicks, a 250-watt infrared bulb can be used. Clamp to the side of the box and have the bulb and hood hanging over the side. Heat Sourceįor a small number of chicks, a 100- 150 watt hanging or clamp-style work lamp is sufficient heat. Also, chicks should never be brooded on newspaper – its surface is too slick and can cause leg problems. Damp dirty litter and droppings can cause respiratory problems and infections. Keep the brooder clean – change litter at least once a week, more if you have many chicks. For the first few days, place paper toweling or an old cloth towel over the litter, so the peeps learn to eat food, not litter. Brooders should be large enough to allow the chicks to get away from the heat source –3’x4’ is a good size for a few chicks and will allow plenty of room for them to grow, as they grow very quickly. It should be scrubbed and disinfected between uses. Oder is more appropriate for larger numbers of chicks, or if you raise many batches of chicks per season. For a few chicks, cardboard has the advantage of being cheap, disposable/recyclable, and sanitary. A brooder can be as simple as a cardboard box with two to three inches of wood shavings for bedding, or as complex as a commercial metal box brooder. A good brooder will have several things – it will keep chicks safe, have either bedding to absorb wastes or a wire mesh floor to allow droppings to pass through, and a heat source. #Chick grit free#Baby chicks are like any other baby – they need fresh food and water, and to be kept clean and warm.ĭownload our FREE GUIDE – “Care and Feeding of Baby Chicks” – or continue reading below. ![]()
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